Tell me what I should do to care for my 3 red eared sliders?

Here's the basics. Hope it helps.








TANK (yours will have to be HUGE to accomodate for 3 RES, I have a 180 gallon tank for my female ALONE)





You will need a tank that allows for 10 gallons of water per square inch of shell. For instance, a 5" turtle will need about a 55 gallon aquarium. There's enough room to swim and then a little so that they can come all the way out of the water to bask. You will need to invest in either a filter specifically made for aquatic turtles or a fish filter that can do twice the amount of water in the tank. For instance, if you have a 50 gallon tank, the fish filter must say it's able to handle 100 gallons of water. This is because turtles are way more messy than fish. You'll need to replace the filter at least once a week, more if necessary. You'll need to line to bottom of the tank with river rocks. These work best because small pebbles are easily swallowed by turtles but extremely hard to digest and can result in digestive problems. They will need to have a landing made out of river rocks on one side of their tank (mine is the width of the tank) that allows them to come completely out of water to bask. It needs to be wide enough and long enough for your turtle.





LIGHTING





Your turtle needs both UVB and UVA lighting. The UVB prevents metabolic bone disease, synthesizes calcium, and produces and synthesizes vitamin D3. This light aso helps with digestion. In a 55 gallon tank, a 5.0 UVB light will do the trick. When you get to larger tanks, you'll need a bigger light like a 10.0. You'll need a basking light. These produce UVA so these take care of 2 duties at once. They provide your turtle with the UVA it needs and heats their basking spot and tank. I recomend a 75 watt bulb to 100 watt bulb.





HEATING





Their water needs to always be between 75 and 80 degreese Farenheight. Their basking area needs to be between 85 and 95 degreese F. Any hotter, and you'll burn the turtle. Any colder and it will freeze. Turtles can't produce their own heat so the temperature around them helps them regulate body temps. At night, it's ok for the temperature gets to 60 degreese F but never any lower. Their UVA/heat lamp should be placed over their basking area. My heat lamp heats both the basking area and water but sometimes it's not this lucky. If the temperatures fail to reach these temperatures, you'll want to invest in a water heater. You'll also want a water themometer placed in the water area of their tank and a land thermometer placed near their basking spot to regulate temperature.





DIET


Turtles need a balanced diet. 50% feeder fish (minnows, goldfish, rosy reds, etc, I've fed mine these and tetras, zeebra fish, scissortails, and small stuff like that) snails, crickets, grasshoppers, krill, and baby shrimp, 25% a good pelet food like ZooMed's or T-Rex (my preferance on this is ZooMed's because the T-Rex float to the bottom and make a huge mess in the tank) but brands like Wardley's and ReptoMin suffice if they have to, and finally 25% greens like mustard, collard greens, and other dark leafy greens. They don't need to have greens until they are over 4" in diameter and they don't need feeder fish until then too. Sometimes turtles lack calcium (which if they have the proper diet should not but it happens) or they have over-active jaws. An easy and inexpensive way to cure this is with a calcium bone (also called turtle bones) that float. This is always avalible and mine nibbles on it occasionally. You really don't need supplements for vitamins if you provide them with the proper habitat. It is a hard job to supplement them with the vitamins and such that they recieve in their diet and from their UV lighting.





CLEANING THE TANK





You'll probably have to clean the tank once a week if not more. I find that this is easily done with a water syphon. You can get these sepcially made for aqariums that both drain and fill the tanks. You'll want to have a back up tank or tub to put your turtle in while doing a tank cleaning. You'll also want to put any feeder fish in this too. The rocks really just need a good rinse but to really get the tank clean you have to take them out. I spray the tank with ZooMed's Wipe Out and it helps kill and prevent salmonilla, which is very common in reptiles. You could simply use anti-bacterial and animal safe soap, like Dawn, to clean the tank also.





MAINTANING A CLEAN TANK





This is really not as hard as it sounds as long as you change the filter properly. You can also use snails (sucker fish aren't really recomended as the turtle may eat them) which the turtle may eat but are really inexpensive and really good for the tank. You can also add a plant called Anacharis which eats the turtle feces, looks good in the tank, is an oxygenizer, and the turtle may eat it. You can also add water conditioner like ZooMed's Repti-Safe which reduces pH, adds electrolites, helps ammonia build up, and a big list of good stuff. To help control disease, you can also use a turtle health conditioner (TetraFauna makes a really good one). You can also add Exo-Terra's Biotize to the tank to help eat the turtle feces but is pretty uncesseary. For new arivals you may want to add something that adds electrolites as it is kinda tramatizing when they're moved around a lot and good for new arrivals. A good thing for this, I've found, is Exo-Terra's Electrodize. If you want to get really paranoid you can always use pH strips too to make sure the water is perfect for them.





Added Later: Isn't funny how I actually typed this out and know what I'm talking about as to the guy below me that just copied and pasted from a web site? Interesting...

Tell me what I should do to care for my 3 red eared sliders?
Not to be mean, but it is best for pets and their owners if you thoroughly investigate animal care BEFORE getting the animal. Luckily sliders are easy to care for and a lot of fun as pets :)
Reply:Common Name: Red-Eared Slider





Latin name: Trachemyss scripta elegans


Red-Eared Slider (Trachemyss scripta elegans) - Photo courtesy of World Chelonia Trust





Native to: Mississippi River valley and tributaries from Indiana to the Gulf of Mexico








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General Description: The Red-eared Slider (Trachemys scripta elegans) is a medium-to-large sized turtle capable of reaching straight carapace lengths of 7 to 9" in males %26amp; 10 to 12" in females (note: in rare cases larger red-ears have been found). The RES is only one of the 4 subspecies (the others are the Yellow-bellied, Cumberland %26amp; Big Bend sliders) making up the single species we call the Slider. The body form is ‘classic basking turtle’ style, with an oval body form (circular in hatchlings), mildly domed on top %26amp; flat-bottomed, blunt head with peripherally-placed eyes %26amp; a blunt snout, feet with webbed (%26amp; clawed) toes %26amp; a small tail. The shell has an internal bony foundation on which are overlaid keratin (like your fingernails are made of) plates called scutes. The shell includes a mildly to moderately domed carapace (upper shell) %26amp; a hingeless plastron (lower shell); the turtle can withdraw into the shell but the shell cannot close at all (RES rely on deep water for protection; on land they're vulnerable to predators like raccoons). The carapace is smooth (note: captives reared too fast with excess dietary protein may have raised scutes (a 'bumpy' carapace) with concentric rings. This is termed pyramiding). In hatchlings the carapace %26amp; skin start out a bright green; the lateral carapace scute pattern is similar to a green fingerprint with lined whorls, %26amp; the skin is striped. Behind the eyes are the classic jelly bean-shaped patches from which this subspecies takes its name (but they aren't the ears). The plastron is a bland yellow with black spots or smudges. As RES mature %26amp; age they typically develop darker, duller carapace %26amp; skin coloration with more subdued/obscured patterns. A minority progress to a condition called melanism where excess dark pigment turns the turtle abnormally dark (some are solid black!). Some adults retain juvenile coloration but most are duller colored.





Carapace: smooth, mildly domed, hard (as opposed to softshell turtles), green in hatchlings but variably darkened into adulthood (sometimes black), with a finger print-like 'whorled' pattern on the lateral scutes with a central streak (pattern often obliterated in adults). Lack the dorsal keeling/knobs of map turtles. Carapace rear mildly serrated.





Plastron: Moderately sized (more developed than in snappers %26amp; musk turtles, less so than box turtles), hingeless (can't close like a box turtle's), yellow base color with variable dark spots or smudges (roughly one per plastral scute). Note: The plastron in some may be a darker color due to staining from substances in the environment (iron is suspected).





Head: Blunt face, peripherally placed light green eyes with a horizontal or diagonal bar through the pupil %26amp; a short snout (vaguely 'frog-faced'). They typically have a jelly bean-like long, horizontally-placed red patch directly behind the eye (hence the name). The head %26amp; neck have plenty of variably green %26amp; yellowish striping. Often a horizontal stripe runs up the lower part of the head %26amp; forks into a 'Y,' with the lower branch going to the lower jaw %26amp; the upper branch to the rear of the eye (this isn't unique to RES; Western painted turtles often have it, too). The lower jaw is rounded moreso than in cooters, painteds %26amp; maps3 (Peterson's pages 174-175).





Size %26amp; Distinguishing Sex Characteristics: Male RES are smaller (and sometimes less domed) than their female counterparts, reaching ~ 7 - 9" adult SCL. Males have elongated front claws to aid in courtship and mating rituals (moreso than map turtles, less so than cooters) %26amp; their tails are much longer than females (but less so than in map turtles); with the tail fully extended the cloaca will be well-past the edge of the carapace. Large females often develop bulky, muscular-looking heads.





Many variations (%26amp; intergrades with other slider sub-species) are found in areas where subspecies ranges overlap one another...leading to a blending of characteristics and frustration trying to figure out what sub-species you have. For example, in southwestern KY %26amp; northwestern TN many RES have narrower %26amp; yellower 'red patches,' suggesting a Cumberland Slider influence. Although rare, hybrids of RES %26amp; map turtles have been produced.





There are more 'color morphs' of the RES available than any other turtle species. Albino RES are common in the hobby (hatchlings run ~ $135 - 150 %26amp; up), hatchlings start out yellow %26amp; progress to creamy white (sometimes with a mildly pinkish, 'plucked chicken' look) %26amp; retain the red 'ears' of normal RES. Hatching albino RES often see poorly %26amp; require food be place directly in front of their faces for the first few weeks, %26amp; outdoor keeping under natural sunlight without natural protective skin pigments is dubious - we recommend albinos be kept indoors until the risks are better known. Pastel RES are abberations with abnormal coloration %26amp; patterning, often with red or orange patterning on the shell. Most are female. The specifics of how pastels are produced aren't well known, but it's rumored some are produced via abnormally high incubation temp.s, often have other abnormalities (i.e.: abnormal scute layout) %26amp; are prone to early death. While some are attractive they are expensive Until more is known for sure we recommend against acquiring pastel sliders. There are other color morphs (i.e.: mutants %26amp; selectively bred progeny of same) with unusual coloration/patterning (i.e.: ghost RES, captive-produced melanistic RES, etc...). While these are thought to be mutants or produced through selective breeding, you typically won't know to what extent a narrow gene pool of breeders were used to produce them. They are a legitimate option for those desiring a unique specimen.





Size: Average adult is 5 - 8 inches; females are larger than males of same age.





Life span: 15 - 25 Years





General appearance: Young red-eared sliders are bright green with yellow markings and a red stripe just behind the eyes. Colors dull with age.





Housing requirements:





Enclosure: Should be mostly aquatic. Minimum dimensions for tank are: width - 3 times the shell length and length - 6 times the shell length. Minimum depth of the water should be as deep as the shell is wide. A basking area is needed to allow the red-ear slider to get out of the water to dry completely. UV lighting can be beneficial.





Temperature: The water should be 70° - 75° F and can be maintained with a submersible aquarium heater. The basking area should be 84° - 88°F during the daylight period. This can be maintained with an incandescent light.





Substrate: Substrate is not recommended, as frequent water changes make it difficult to clean.





Diet: Feeding should be daily with all they can eat in 45 minutes. Remove all food remaining after that time, except for greens. Just because they beg for food does not necessarily mean they're hungry, this is a trained condition. Diet should be at least 65% - 85% meat consisting of commercial turtle food, trout chow, beef heart, cooked chicken, fish live or fresh caught (not frozen). Meat should be dusted once a week with a good herp vitamin containing D3. Dark green leafy vegetables can be used to fill the rest of the diet.





Maintenance: Water should be clean and clear. Waste should be removed whenever it is found. Filtration prolongs the time between water changes, but should not be used as a substitute for water changes. Wastewater should not be emptied into a sink that is used for food preparation or personal hygiene. Hands and any other part of your body that comes in contact with the water should be washed thoroughly with anti-bacterial soap.











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When they have just been born, they still have their egg tooth in their mouths and the yolk sac hanging out of their bellies. The egg tooth is what enabled them to open the eggshell, it will fall out on its own. The yolk sac is what fed them while they were incubating. DO NOT try to remove this sac, trying to remove it can kill the baby turtle. It is better to wait till it is absorbed on its own. Once it is absorbed, you will notice a split in the plastron. This will heal by itself too, you don't need to treat it.





Housing:





Set them on a 20 gallon tank per dozen turtles . Provide them with a dry land area and a shallow water area. Newborns need to master the art of floating and staying underwater for long periods of time. Don't assume that they will survive only with water. Newborn Red-Ear sliders can actually drown if you neglect them a dry land area. The water should be not too deep. As with adult sliders, newborns need to have their full spectrum light. So don't forget to include that in the tank. The full spectrum light will help the newborn shells to harden. Keep the water neatly clean. If you don't have a filter change the water every two days. This is very important since baby sliders are more prone to getting eye infections (that can leave them blind for life or even kill them) than adult sliders.





Feeding:





Once they are set up in their tank start feeding them. It is important to get them to eat. Start by offering them one by one all items on the proper slider diet (earthworms, crickets, sweet water shrimp, aquatic snails, water hyacinths, fruits, one commercial food). Note: You might have to 'chop' all of the food you offer since they are small babies. This includes chopping earthworms, meal worms, crickets. I know, this sounds disgusting but believe me, you will get used to after a while and it won't bother you anymore.





A Baby That Refuses to Eat:





If you have already tried all items of a proper Red-Ear slider diet, and the hatchling still refuses to eat, try offering a small piece of lean beef or ham. This is just for the purpose of turning on his appetite, once he starts eating you can try again to give him the items of a proper diet. If a week has gone by and the hatchling still refuses to it, you will have to force him to eat. Make a solution of beef blood and turtle vitamins and using a drop dispenser get the drops in between his lips.





How to Prevent Most Common Diseases in Slider Hatchlings:





Keep the water neatly clean, provide him with a full spectrum light, keep him warm (about 80 degrees), and add vitamin supplements to his diet. Make sure the supplements are high in vitamin A and calcium.





Eye Infections:





The most common problem in slider hatchlings are eye infections. These infections develop due to dirty water and lack of vitamin A. The treatment is easy: Change the water more often (get a filter if you can), add higher doses of vitamin A to her diet. Ask your pharmacist to prepare you a solution of 97% distilled water and 3% boric acid. Clean the turtles eyes with this solution twice a day. If the eyes are totally closed, try to open them so that the solution gets inside. Raise temperature at 85 degrees F. If the infection is severe take the turtle to a vet since she will need to be injected with vitamin A.





Colds:





If you notice your turtle has a runny nose, or is breathing with her mouth open, she might have a cold. Avoid breezes and cold drafts of air. Raise temperature at about 85 degrees and add extra vitamins to her regular food. If she doesn't seem to get better in a couple of days or you notice that she is swimming lopsided, take her immediately to a veterinarian! she might have developed pneumonia which can be fatal. She will need to be treated with antibiotics.





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